A. Determine Drive Information

We assume that the hard drive is physically installed and detected by the BIOS.

To determine the path that your system has assigned to the new hard drive, open a terminal and run:

sudo lshw -C disk

This should produce output similar to this sample:

 *-disk
       description: ATA Disk
       product: IC25N040ATCS04-0
       vendor: Hitachi
       physical id: 0
       bus info: ide@0.0
       logical name: /dev/sdb
       version: CA4OA71A
       serial: CSH405DCLSHK6B
       size: 37GB
       capacity: 37GB

Be sure to note the “logical name” entry, as it will be used several times throughout this guide.

B. Partition The Disk

You’ll be using “fdisk” to accomplish this. Refer back to the logical name you noted from earlier. For illustration, I’ll use /dev/sdb, and assume that you want a single partition on the disk, occupying all the free space.

If the number of cylinders in the disk is larger than 1024 (and large hard drives always have more), it could, in certain setups, cause problems with:

1. software that runs at boot time (e.g., old versions of LILO)
2. booting and partitioning software from other OSs (e.g., DOS FDISK, OS/2 FDISK)

Otherwise, this will not negatively affect you.

1) Initiate fdisk with the following command:

sudo fdisk /dev/sdb

2) Fdisk will display the following menu:

Command (m for help): m <enter>
  Command action
   a   toggle a bootable flag
   b   edit bsd disklabel
   c   toggle the dos compatibility flag
   d   delete a partition
   l   list known partition types
   m   print this menu
   n   add a new partition
   o   create a new empty DOS partition table
   p   print the partition table
   q   quit without saving changes
   s   create a new empty Sun disklabel
   t   change a partition's system id
   u   change display/entry units
   v   verify the partition table
   w   write table to disk and exit
   x   extra functionality (experts only)

  Command (m for help):

3) We want to add a new partition. Type “n” and press enter.

 Command action
   e   extended
   p   primary partition (1-4)

4) We want a primary partition. Enter “p” and enter.

Partition number (1-4):

5) Since this will be the only partition on the drive, number 1. Enter “1″ and enter.

  Command (m for help):

If it asks about the first cylinder, just type “1″ and enter. (We are making 1 partition to use the whole disk, so it should start at the beginning.)

6) Now that the partition is entered, choose option “w” to write the partition table to the disk. Type “w” and enter.

The partition table has been altered!

7) If all went well, you now have a properly partitioned hard drive that’s ready to be formatted. Since this is the first partition, Linux will recognize it as /dev/sdb1, while the disk that the partition is on is still /dev/sdb.

To format the new partition as ext3 file system (best for use under Ubuntu):

  sudo mkfs -t ext3 /dev/sdb1

To format the new partition as fat32 file system (best for use under Ubuntu & Windows):

  sudo mkfs -t fat32 /dev/sdb1

As always, substitute “/dev/sdb1″ with your own partition’s path.

C. Mount The Drive

You can choose to have the drive mounted automatically each time you boot the computer, or manually only when you need to use it.

Automatic Mount At Boot

Note: Ubuntu now recommends to use UUID instead, see the instructions here:https://help.ubuntu.com/community/UsingUUID

You’ll need to edit /etc/fstab:

sudo nano -Bw /etc/fstab

Add this line to the end (for ext3 file system):

  /dev/sdb1    /media/mynewdrive   ext3    defaults     0        2

Add this line to the end (for fat32 file system):

  /dev/sdb1    /media/mynewdrive   vfat    defaults     0        2

Give the newly created directory that points to the harddrive with the following command:

sudo chmod 7777 /media/mynewdrive

Thaks for https://help.ubuntu.com/community/InstallingANewHardDrive, I am writing this for my own reference later on.

When you access a website through a secure connection, it is a common issue to get a warning that the certificate is not issued by a trusted authority.

The exact warning message you will get depending on your browser is:
Firefox 3 – “The certificate is not trusted because the issuer certificate is unknown. (Error code: sec_error_unknown_issuer)”
Internet Explorer 7 – “The security certificate presented by this website was not issued by a trusted certificate authority.”
Google Chrome – “The site’s security certificate is not trusted!”
Safari – “Authentication failed because the server certificate is not trusted.”
If you get one of the above warnings, this means that your browser does not trust the SSL certificate because it is not signed by a company that the browser recognizes as trusted.

The two most common reasons for this warning are:

* The website is using a self-signed/free SSL certificate.
* The website is using a private SSL certificate but it is missing a CA (Certificate Authority) certificate.

The solution in the first case is to purchase a private SSL certificate which is issued for the specific domain by a trusted authority.

The solution in the second case is to have the SSL certificate reinstalled with the correct CA bundle. The CA bundle is provided by the SSL vendor and should be included in the private SSL package.

http://kb.siteground.com/article/SSL_Error__Certificate_Not_Trusted.html

If you use a wifi network at home, there are undoubtedly limits to where you can access the signal. You might get a strong connection at the kitchen table, but take your laptop to the living room and you lose the signal. If you’re looking to boost your signal a few feet or get a strong connection all the way upstairs in the back bedroom, we’ve got a handful of simple tricks and more advanced techniques to get you on connected to your home wifi from anywhere in your house.
Move your router:
* It’s so simple, but many people don’t realize that where you put your router really does make a difference. Obviously a central location is best, but for many, you are tied to putting the router where the Internet connection comes into the house.
* Beyond simple proximity, consider the router’s height. The higher your router is on a shelf or cabinet, the less physical interference it’s likely to encounter. Move the router to the best possible position to take advantage of doorways and open spaces instead of walls and corners. Wifi might move through the airwaves, but furniture, walls and appliances can weaken your signal substantially.
* Signal interference is one of the biggest culprits that might be at work if your wifi is weak. Walls and physical obstructions block your signal, but signals emitted by any electromagnetic household object do too. Scoot your router away from anything that might interfere: cordless phones, microwaves, wireless game controllers, other wifi-enabled devices (TVs, etc.), Bluetooth devices, and even flourescent lights and elevators.
Technical tweaks:
Once you’ve got your router in an ideal spot, take a look at your equipment. These next steps can help you further improve your wifi signal.
* Did you know routers have channels? If you live in close proximity to someone else with a wifi network you may both be trying to use the same channel and degrading your signals.
To find out if you are “crossing the streams” use WiFi Stumbler or inSSIDer to find the best and least-trafficked channel for your router to broadcast on. Once you’ve found the optimal channel, follow these step-by-step instructions to get your router on the right track.
* Depending on the age of your router, it may be slower than newer models. Upgrade an older b or g router to an n router to extend your range for relatively reasonable cost. There are some new n routers for as little as $30. An n router can handle local electrical and physical signal interference better than b and g and may get you quite a bit more range.
* Lesser-known fact: The “current standard” 802.11n routers can operate at either 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz bands, and 2.4 GHz is far better at travelling through walls. So if you already have a Wireless-n router and need it to extend farther, make sure it’s set to use 2.4 GHz instead of 5 GHz.
* The internal antenna on your laptop itself can be a factor in how much range you get. Even if your laptop has built-in wifi, it could be well worth picking up an external USB adapter, like this $30 option from Netgear.
This could also help an older laptop without Wireless-N support take advantage of faster speeds and improved range from a new 802.11n router.
Invest in network extension options:
* Wifi repeaters amplify and extend your wireless signal. Put a repeater within range of your existing wifi router and it will relay that signal out to hard-to-reach locations around your home or office. They cost about $90 and while they can theoretically double your range, real life results tend to vary considerably. If you’ve had good or bad luck with a repeater, we welcome any advice or testimonials in the comments section below.
* Powerline networking uses the electrical wiring in your house to extend your Internet coverage. This is especially good if you want to get Internet access in a back room or you want to connect a gaming console that’s on an old TV in the garage. Plug one powerline adapter into your router and the other into an electrical plug. Then in the far room where you want connectivity, plug the other powerline adapter into an electrical plug and voila – you’ve got Internet, you can even put a second wireless router on that connection. Setting up an alternative powerline network using your home’s own AC power adapters can circumvent many of the most common wireless connectivity problems, and you don’t even need to give up wifi altogether. If you look into getting started with a powerline setup, be sure to stick with one manufacturer when buying your equipment to avoid any compatibility issues.

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/upgrade-your-life/upgrade-life-extend-wifi-range-214513350.html

terminal

Open your Ubuntu’s Terminal, then issue the command:

sudo /etc/network/interfaces

after hitting ENTER key this will ask for your root or admin password; adjust it to your needs (in this example setup I will use the IP address 192.168.0.100):
# This file describes the network interfaces available on your system
# and how to activate them. For more information, see interfaces(5).
# The loopback network interface
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback

# This is a list of hotpluggable network interfaces.
# They will be activated automatically by the hotplug subsystem.
mapping hotplug
script grep
map eth0

# The primary network interface
auto eth0
iface eth0 inet static
address 192.168.0.100
netmask 255.255.255.0
network 192.168.0.0
broadcast 192.168.0.255
gateway 192.168.0.1

terminal

Open and edit rc.local script file:
nano /etc/rc.local
Enter either of the two commands:
/bin/bash [commands]
or
/bin/sh -c [command]

Thanks: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1540464

Ubuntu Logo

There are many reasons one would want to limit internet bandwidth/speed on a system e.g you dont want your siblings to choke your internet or, if you are a network admin, you dont want one user, downloading a big movie over torrent, to hurt every one else’s surfing.

To limit internet bandwidth on a Ubuntu machine install wondershaper. For this open a terminal and type following command:
sudo apt-get install wondershaper
Now use ifconfig command to find out the name of interface connected to internet. The name will be something like eth0, eth1, wlan0 or something similar. In my case it is eth0

Now issue a command similar to follwoing (relpacing eth0 with your interface name):
sudo wondershaper eth0 1024 256
this will limit the download speed to 1024 Kbps and upload to 256 Kbps. Remember that this limit is for all internet traffic i.e torrent, ftp, browsing and any thing else.

If you want to remove these limits use
sudo wondershaper clear eth0
again replacing eth0 with your interface name.

thanks to: http://binwaheed.blogspot.com/2011/01/limit-internet-bandwidth-usage-internet.html

Changing User’s Profile Fullname:
Syntax:

chfn -f [fullname] -r [room number] -o [other phone number] -w [work phone number] -h [home phone number] [username you want these changes to take effect]

source: http://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/intrepid/man1/chfn.1.html
Mount/Unmount Disk Drive on Ubuntu Terminal:

Be sure you are familiar with the Disk Drive ID  registered on the Ubuntu filesystem, in my case, it has the following:

UUID=7c5c005a-e535-44fe-990d-3b7d5995e546

open your terminal, and issue a command:

admin@admin#: mkdir mystoragedata

admin@admin#:nano /etc/fstab

at the end of the line, place the following line:

UUID=7c5c005a-e535-44fe-990d-3b7d5995e546 /mystoragedata ext4 defaults 0 0

Save and Exit

Browse through your “Places > Computer”, and you will see the contents of your disk drive

As I am doing setup for my yahoo messenger, googletalk, AIM  accounts among others, I have found out that there is a facebook on the list of protocols. Since I am really wanting to do a test to let my facebook chat activated on my Pidgin, I tried to set it up so that there is no need for me to log into my facebook using browser and still can chat my friends. But what the heck are the tutorials over the net? I’m almost done with all the settings except for the “Uncheck SSL” thing that other people on the net is telling me, and I can’t even find that option on my Pidgin window. Until I found a plugin for Pidgin hosted by Google. I downloaded  and install the support software on my machine and I can see my facebook online friends on Pidgin’s Buddy list. Works like charm. You can download the plugin here.


var $useragent = "CodeIgniter";

var $mailpath = "/usr/sbin/sendmail"; // Sendmail path

var $newline = "\r\n"; // Default newline. "\r\n" or "\n" (Use "\r\n" to comply with RFC 822)


Save Email.php file, then, in your controller, do the following codes:

$this->load->library('email', $config);

You can now send email from your PHP CodeIgniter program.

The glitch is so severe that it potentially affects every user of Internet Explorer. The company said that hackers can take advantage of the flaw in taking over personal computers of more than 900 million using the web browser.

However, other browsers such as Firefox, Google Chrome and Safari are unaffected by the threat because, unlike Internet Explorer, they don’t support MHTML files, where the problem lies, the Daily Mail reported.

Microsoft said that the bug is inside Windows, presumably because they don’t want users to migrate to other browsers.

This means it affects all versions of the operating system currently supported including Windows XP (SP3), Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows Server 2003 and Windows Server 2008 (R2).

The company has so far been unable to remove the bug itself and has issued a “fix it” security patch to block any attempts to use it.

All Windows users, particularly those who use Internet Explorer, are being urged to download the patch as the company’s security team work on a way to permanently fix the problem.

The company has described the flaw as a serious threat, although no hackers are thought to have yet exploited the vulnerability.

Microsoft spokeswoman Angela Gunn announced the flaw in a security advisory published online Friday.

“An attacker could construct an HTML link designed to trigger a malicious script and somehow convince the targeted user to click it. When the user clicked that link, the malicious script would run on the user’s computer for the rest of the current Internet Explorer session,” she was quoted as saying.

“Such a script might collect user information (e.g. email), spoof content displayed in the browser, or otherwise interfere with the user’s experience,” the warning said.

Source: http://www.facenfacts.com/NewsDetails/4276/security-risk-to-internet-explorer-users.htm